Author Archives: jmwtarland

Early start for a long walk to Villafranca. A particularly nice walk through vine groves, cherry trees and ripening wheat fields. Probably not enhanced by necking that cheap bottle of red last night!
Weather was noticeably cooler but the predicted rain didn’t materialise.
Interesting mix of architecture today with a mixture of very impressive houses contrasting with old houses that were literally collapsing in on themselves.
Got checked into our hotel around 1pm and, as always, delighted to have a bath in the room. Relaxing afternoon, booked dinner for 7pm with our American crew, and had a walk around the town.
Excellent dinner with entertaining company and a welcome early night.

Set off at 6.30 in pretty murky conditions. Tough going uphill in very rocky tracks for the first few miles. Met a few people who got caught in yesterday’s storm and their stories were grim, but were all upbeat today, and with yet another Camino tale to tell. Today included the highest point of the Camino at just over 5000 feet. It was poignant to meet fellow walkers at the Cruz Ferro (iron cross) which, unbeknown to us!, is a very famous landmark and one which walkers leave a stone at to symbolise the unburdening of one’s more negative memories. It was quite moving although if Susan offered to take any more photos of people arriving I thought we were there for the day. Onwards to Molinaseca where we checked into our attic apartment by a lovely Brazilian, Jose. While waiting to check in we met Norbert our normally abstemious Belgium friend who was on the beer as he had just heard that he was going to be a grandfather again. We had a relaxing afternoon and decided to take advantage of our small apartment and buy some bread and cheese and have a quiet night in. As if…. On the way to the supermarket we met a lovely Australian chap who we had met previously hanging out his laundry and who suggested a beer, and then Wolfgang and Germaine so best laid plans and all that. Anyway we got home via the local supermarket and enjoyed some cheese, bread and wine in our attic.

More pics and stories to follow when internet is working…… 😊

Quite a short walk today so left at 7 and stopped at every village enroute to Rabinal. We have now left the meseta and are approaching the Cantabrian mountains. The landscape is hilly and tree covered, much more like parts of Scotland. As usual met many familiar faces including Oscar again. He gave Susan his phone no. and invited us to Buenos Aires. Susan has added it to the ever increasing list of places we should go to…. Went for a light lunch of calamari and got back to the hotel just before the predicted storm hit. It was quite spectacular with dramatic thunder and lightning. Anybody caught in it while doing the next section (steep and tricky underfoot) would be finding it quite daunting. Wandered out at teatime when the storm had abated, met up again with Andy, Marco from Brazil and June and Ralph, originally from Ireland and South Africa and now staying in Sydney. We all had a very entertaining dinner together. Susan was telling the story about our original plan to arrive in Santiago on my 65th birthday and Marco quietly arranged for a wee cake and a candle to appear at the end of the meal. Marco is a lovely fellow with long dark hair and certainly doesn’t look his 50 years. I said that in Scotland he would be known as a ‘lucky bastard’! The company found this highly amusing as I knew they would.

Long walk into Astorga today so up and away before 6. Today sis the last leg through the meseta so once again a fairly straight and flat walk. Stopped at several villages along the way as usual. One thing that I don’t think I mentioned previously was the number of villages that have fallen into disrepair and seem largely depopulated. Quite sad to see.
We were pleasantly surprised to catch up with the loquacious Irish John again. He told us he had various foot problems and had to rest for a few days. Also spoke to a lovely couple from Dover who are doing the Camino over a very leisurely 7 weeks. Got into our room w

1.30, would have been 20 minutes earlier had I not been behind one of our transatlantic cousins who asked, what felt like, 100 questions of the the poor lassie at reception.
Had a rest and then explored the town a bit. It was very busy but then it is Saturday night. We ate in the hotel restaurant. We shared a starter of morcilla (similar to black pudding but with more of a coarse pate texture and mixed with apple), Susan then had cod in a leek sauce (a local speciality) and I had one of my favourite meals of tuna steak teriyaki, not so local one would assume. Later we were joined by Rheinhart and Helga from Germany so had a second bottle of cheap cava. Tried to gatecrash a private party in the hotel but fortunately were politely rebuffed.

Set off around 6.30 as we wanted some daylight to see our way out of Leon. Walked about 5 miles before leaving the outskirts and again walking the flat meseta. It was particularly hot today and a lot of our fellow walkers were wearying, as was I! Anyway it was nice to get to our hostal, have a beer, and join in a communal whinge about the temperature. Had a few beers with Wim from Belgium, Jacque from France and a German couple, before eating with our American friends. Nightcap back at our hostal and a blether with some Californians before bed, ready for an early start tomorrow.

Set off at 6am in order to get most of the day in Leon. Usual coffee and juice stops and blethers with various fellow walkers. Arrived in Leon around 11.30 and got into our room in a converted monastery and was soaking in the huge spa bath by 11.45, not exactly monastic! Had a relaxing few hours and then had a wander around Leon. Some amazing architecture, lots of plazas and lovely gardens. The cathedral is something to behold and they even deducted a euro from the entrance charge due to my advanced age. If anybody is interested the cathedral has 1900 square feet of stained glass windows. We were delighted to see Susanne from Germany again because, as I think I mentioned previously, she was considering going home early. Had a couple of beers and took a wander to find a Chinese restaurant that was recommended. It was a bit of a trek in the 30° heat but we found it. It reminded us the old Mr Tan restaurant in Nairn. Had a lovely meal and asked the lady to phone us a taxi. That didn’t prove straightforward as our hotel is in the middle of pedestrian and one-way streets. Anyway we made it, and watched ‘The Way’ on the iPad. It comes up in conversation regularly and we couldn’t remember if we had seen it or not? Bits of it seemed familiar but we are still not sure.

Back to our 6am start this morning. The first 11 miles were across the flat meseta Virtually a straight old Roman road. The ironic fact is that the original road would have been superior to the more rubble strewn road it is now. As we walked without seeing a living soul, car, or habitation Susan remarked that we were walking on the wrong side of the road, ie not facing the non-existent cars. I said she had missed her vocation as she would have made a great offshore safety advisor! We arrived in the first town just before 10, desperate for a toilet stop and then struggled to find a cafe. Fortunately we did so, as Susan was on the point of asking the first person she saw to use their bathroom! Walked into our destination arriving arising midday but unable to get into our apartment to 2pm – dangerous! Couple of beers while Susan shopped for a meal in the apartment for tonight. Met a lovely chap from London called Steve. He told us a funny story involving the Scottish guy we met a few days ago, Mike. Steve’s pal had left a good pair of trousers on the washing line at the Hostal where he was staying. As Mike was a day behind they text him a photo of the trousers and details of the Hostal and asked him to see if they were still about. Mike turns up, shows the Hostal owner the photo and quickly realizes that the guy is actually wearing the trousers in question! He obviously
gave him the trousers but was quite unapologetic saying he always wore clothes that had been left.
Laura let us into the apartment at 2.30. It is really nice, overlooking a small plaza. A lazy afternoon and then a drink in the bar and bakery combined below the flat. Pete and Pat turned up so we had a drink with them. Susan made a salad for tea

Short walk today so only left around 9. We are still walking along the meseta, a huge area of northern Spain that is very flat and around 3000 ft in elevation. It wasn’t particularly hot today but we still found it quite hard going. I kept thinking of the film ‘High Plains Drifter’…. Goodness knows how anybody could do it in July / August? The road itself was laid by the Romans so must have had a few stories to tell. Hardly saw a soul today but had a nice blether with Wolfgang from Hamburg. He was quite a few years older than me but was obviously excited to tell us that he was meeting his wife in Leon and then she was going to walk to Santiago with him.
We are staying at a very old building that has been beautifully converted into a small hotel. It is run by Gemma and Leo. The hotel is full of old photos and memorabilia and Gemma kindly pointed out her great grandmother and various other long dead relations.

Lovely meal in our hotel, our host Leo is a chef and it showed. My main course of hake, with white asparagus and a lemony mayonnaise was exceptional. Ate with a well travelled couple from Madrid and had a chat with a Portuguese dad and 3 sons who were cycling to Santiago and on to Porto. Maybe a thought if you fancied a change to the golf trips George😅?

Short (relatively!) walk today so we left a bit later. Warm but overcast so once again perfect walking conditions. Walked initially with Song, an American of Korean heritage. She is actually the second Song we have met. Then had a chat with Jay, a 77 year old gentleman from Chicago. He is getting on fine but was delighted to find that getting his luggage shipped was an option. Had an interesting blether with a youngish German / Hungarian girl who currently works in Iceland. Unfortunately she had some work and relationship problems but said that she was finding the walk therapeutic. Had our usual coffee and juice breaks at a couple of quirky little cafés.

We arrived at our apartment quite early only to meet the owner coming back from the bakers. We have 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, large kitchen, sitting room, and garden, all for 50 euros cash! I had a relaxing afternoon while Susan caught up with some washing and had a wander about the town.

Went out early evening for a drink at the local square. There were dozens of children aged from 2 to 12 running about playing football or skipping, while the parents sat in the cafés. Took us back a bit. Had dinner in the square and wandered back via an Irish bar that was playing Irish music when we passed earlier. Anyway by the time we arrived there was only the barman and a couple of pals playing Spanish music. Had a large Jameson so a worthwhile visit nevertheless! Slept well.

Off just before 6, me in a shirt, Susan in a light fleece. Contrary to the forecast it was actually quite fresh and with a few dark clouds looming! However apart from a very light shower we were fine. We were pleased to get a coffee at a ‘seasonal’ caravan about 5 miles in and then a juice stop at a cafe about the 12 mile point. Spoke to a nice Californian who tells us he is hiking Europe all summer. He was obviously very fit and after Susan and I left I said he was a double for Lance Armstrong and I was annoyed I never asked him if he was. Anyway my curiosity was sated when we met later and he said I wasn’t the first person to say that, and no he definitely wasn’t LA.
We had a bit of a flap at our Hostal when the young lad couldn’t find our reservation but his older sister appeared later and sorted it out. All of which gave me time for a couple of wee beers😀.
Had a relaxing afternoon before finding a wee local before dinner. Ledigos is a tiny hamlet but a local family have set up a small brewery and the end result is very palatable. (Vereda)
It started to rain when we left and we managed to lose each other on the way back to the Hostal – quite an achievement even by our standards of navigation.
Anyway we met again in the bar and went into dinner with Norbert, a lovely Belgium man who was also married in 1983, and a couple from London, Rachel and Heath.
We had the usual chat as to future plans and we said we were thinking about doing the Camino Norte? Norbert asked why and I said it was because we heard there were normally no Belgiums on that route. Fortunately he liked my wee joke😀.
Nightcap in the bar (Aberdonian measures!) and early night.