Author Archives: jmwtarland

Once again we found ourselves walking in perfect weather conditions. Set off at 06.30 and found ourselves in the town plaza having a beer with South Carolina John and Irish John before midday (probably a bit too early!). A famous highlight of todays walk is the wine fountain at the Irache winery – it literally dispenses free red wine to anybody who wishes to avail themselves. Being Scottish we thought it appropriate to sacrifice one of our water bottles and refill with wine…. The country side is still dominated with huge fields of wheat and rape seed but vines and olive trees are increasingly common. We met an older lady from Belgium who has completed the entire Camino every year (excepting pandemic) since she retired in 2002! It’s now around 4.30pm so we are planning an early dinner and an early night. Oh and we are now travelling even lighter having left one of my three pairs of socks and a hankie drying in our last hotel room😀.

Had a pleasant Sunday evening in Pamplona. The town centre was extremely busy, possibly due to the fact that it was Mother’s Day. We eventually managed to find a seat in the main square for a beer. We then went to a bar – Gaucho- famous for its unusual pinchos. Met a lovely English couple who ran a guesthouse in Whitby. They had been in San Sebastián and were getting a bus to Zaragoza the next day. Slept well and up early to commence walking at 06.30.

DAY 4 – MONDAY 2/5/22

Once again we were very lucky to avoid the rain and walked in overcast but warm conditions. Conditions were good underfoot but very stony so you had to watch your step. We were very close to some of the hundreds of wind turbines that dominate the skyline. Very rich farmland again with wheat and rapeseed fields mainly. Stayed in an old hotel on the outskirts of Puente la Reina. Walked into town for a couple of beers and then had the ‘Pilgrims Menu’ in the hotel – which was excellent. Sat with Johannes from Austria, who was very quiet, and Tom from Northern California who wasn’t! Had a nightcap of Glenfiddoch so I guess we must be getting more relaxed as the days progress.

DAY 5 PUENTE LE REINA GARE – ESTELLA (21.8Km)

Tuesday 3rd May 2022

Slept well and set of at 06.30 again. According to yesterdays weather forecasts today the rain was definitely coming. In the event it was another overcast, very still and warm day. Perfect conditions for a leisurely walk to Estella. We now know most of our fellow walkers so it is nice to hear how they are finding the walk. Susan is busy photographing a lot of the plants and flowers and is turning into quite the naturalist. She had a bit of a giggle to herself when a Bulgarian lady asked if she was walking with her papa – I was 5 metres away at the time!

Yes finally cracked it! Images altogether 😊

Day 3 – Sunday 1st May 2022

Had a painless (literally😀) short walk into Pamplona. Much of the walk was along a river and through rich and verdant agricultural land before ascending a few hills on the outskirts of the town. Met up with various people along the way including a bunch of very lively Cuban men, each one of whom seemed to have a cigar bigger that the last one. We actually struggled to find an outdoor seat when we arrived but did find one to have a beer and Google where we were staying but were pleasantly surprised to see it right in front of us. Just about to go and explore a few bars – each one of which will claim to have had Ernest Hemingway as a customer I shouldn’t wonder. Thank you all for the kind messages to date. Hasta mañana.

Thursday: Spent a leisurely day in St Jean Pied de Port. Tried to have a fairly light breakfast and lunch but we find that can xxx be nl in France! Got some basic supplies

for our journey tomorrow lo. We also needed some walking poles. Susan got these aluminium mal mix cones with cork handles and snap lock extension clips in a fetching

bronze design, I got an old ostick.
Bit of a fitful sleep as we are iunderstandably a bit apprehensive about jm

lo tomorrow – 20 miles to a height of

4688 feet is obviously somewhat daunting.

DAY 1 – 29/04/22 Friday

Friday: sunrise was actually just after 7 but it was light enough for us to leave at 6.30. First few minutes toll i’ll miles were a bit of a struggle until we adapted to a regular breathing pattern. We could have happily left our various maps and guidebooks at home as there was literally hundreds walking today. We did however meet one English lady who managed to get lost yesterday and had to phone 112 (999) and an ambulance turned up and took her back to St JPP.
The weather was perfect for walking, humid low down, turning fresher at altitude. However the low cloud / mist meant that the famous views didn’t materialise.
All was going well to about the 13 mile mark and I was thinking this is a bit of a doddle (pride before a fall), when my lower back started to get really sore on the descent. I subsequently spoke to a German physiotherapist who said it was a common problem. Anyway we soldiered on, not helped by the fact we had to cross a field of horses, to the next town, Roncesvalles. We relaxed in a bar there for a while and debated getting a taxi for the last 4 miles but the sun came out and we carried on to Espinal. We couldn’t face the 3 course ‘Pilgrim’ menu but had a couple of drinks and an amazing selection of pinchos appeared on the bar. 1 euro each and we only needed a couple. Slept well.

DAY 2 – 30/04/22 Saturday

Saturday another nice walking day. Susan is absolutely fine but I am definitely struggling a bit with my back. Anyway we managed the 15 miles to Akerreta to arrive at a beautifully restored old building, now a hotel. Jose, the owner gave us chapter and verse and pictures!, explaining the restoration. Very interesting but I was more thinking about a beer and a bath. He tells us that where we are sleeping in is the room used by Martin Sheen in ‘The Way’? We are going down for dinner in a couple of hours. I suspect it will be very good – not that there is anywhere else nearby anyway.
Onwards to Pamplona tomorrow.

Day 1

Day 2

Good flight down to Stansted with EasyJet. Stayed at an airport hotel and was pleasantly surprised at how friendly and efficient the bar / restaurant staff were. Got to bed later than intended!

Wednesday:
Up in the middle of the night for an early flight to Biarritz. Ryanair asked for masks to be worn – I guess because masks are still required on French transport. We had planned spending some time in Biarritz but jumped on the bus with a bunch of fellow walkers and ended up at the train station in Bayonne, miles away from Biarritz. As it turned out Bayonne is a beautiful old town to explore and we also visited a Basque museum which was very interesting. In the afternoon we took the train to Saint Jean Pied de Port arriving around 4pm. Slight problem in that the tickets I had asked Susan to buy online just before departure were for the following day! Apparently that was my fault 😏- not that it mattered as the conductor, obviously recognising us as innocents abroad, accepted them.
Few drinks, dinner at ‘Chez Eduard’, and a very welcome early night.
Today we met:
John, a retired chap from Selkirk
Les (aged 77) a widower from Cornwall
Bill from Vancouver Island
Mum and son from Salisbury
A very smiley older chap from Belgium
Mum and daughter from Ohio, daughter teaches English in Japan
Mum and dad from Hampshire seeing off their daughter. Dad (an orchestra conductor who has performed regularly in Eden Court) hung back to inform us that their daughter had recently been diagnosed with MS and could we keep an eye on her if our paths crossed. I like to think he was reassured when we obviously said we would, as would everyone else.
Dave, a retired teacher of Greek and Latin!, from Seattle
And a couple of Italian chaps that Susan got chatting to while I was thinking of what to say to Dave😀

2 years later than originally planned, we are commencing our travels on the 26th April by flying to Stansted. The following morning we then fly to Biarritz, then take a train to St. Jean Pied de Port. We are spending a couple of nights there to get our bearings etc.